A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step. In the case of travel to Europe, and in many places elsewhere, Austria has hosted a series of milestones. The first time to witness snow, the first Schengen visa, and the first destination with a connecting flight. The year was 2006, and right after my group travel with SFC friends in Beijing and solo trip in Tokyo, my appetite for further exploration has just got started. The passion to visit places continued for the next ten years, transcending between periods of single and married life.
How I chose Austria to be my first European destination is credited to Gerlie Ann Presto, a Vienna-based friend from the University of the Immaculate Conception where I was two years her senior pursuing the same degree. Having friends who live in certain countries helps as I got invaluable travel information.
As I soon found out, obtaining a Schengen visa is more complicated and requires more documentation compared to my previous application for a Japan visa. As a Philippine passport holder, I can travel to 69 countries without requiring a visa, and none of them belong to the European continent. Nonetheless, I am grateful Gerlie not only furnished a checklist of requirements, but also prepared a letter vouching to support me during my entire stay.
Before formally applying for a visa, I have to secure return flights between Hong Kong and Vienna.
With a multiple-entry Schengen visa, a traveler can visit 27 Schengen Area countries multiple times within the visa’s validity period, allowing for flexibility in travel throughout countries, unmarked with traditional borders. However, there are also rules on which embassy to lodge the application: the country you’ll spend the most time, or the first country of entry.
Using the defunct online travel agent Zuji, I booked the cheapest flight with Aeroflot, and proceeded to gather other documents before making an appointment with the Austrian consulate. This included proof of employment, bank statement, and Gerlie’s support letter. The application process was both exciting and nerve-wracking. I’d finally get to Europe for the first time, I said to myself, but will my navigation or language skills be enough?
On one end, my imagination paints the grandeur Vienna’s architecture, brushed with hues of opulence and timeless tune of Mozart’s melodies of aristocratic Europe. But on the other, it’s the fear of missing my flight, getting questioned in visa check at the immigration counter, and refused entry.
I did brush up on basic Russian, just in case my layover in Moscow will pose as a greater concern than the destination itself. “Zdravstvuyte” (hello) and “spasiba” (thank you) might be enough, but I also added “izvinitye” (excuse me) and “ya ne govoryu paruskee” (I don’t speak Russian) in my arsenal of Russian phrases. Paradoxically, the last of which is reminiscent of my usual response to random Chinese tourist questions in Hong Kong (“ngo msik gong gwong dung wah”) that I don’t speak the language I just spoke.
Arriving way ahead of might scheduled 11:35am flight on that chilly February morning, I am assured that I won’t repeat that incident in 2004 when Cebu traffic stalled me and my cousin Art into missing my flight to Davao on my birthday. But as I was reviewing the potential flight path of this journey — from Southern to Central China and the Taklamakan Desert and from Mongolia and Siberia to Ural Mountains before Moscow — I also learned that an Aeroflot accident just 12 years before took place on a return flight from Moscow to Hong Kong’s Kai Tak Airport. Aeroflot flight 593 crashed into a mountain range within Russian territory due to pilot error, killing all 75 passengers and crew on board.
Not that I don’t trust Russian pilots nor the airworthiness of Aeroflot aircraft, but being airborne for almost 11 hours and occasional air turbulence sends me shivers. Statistics put flying as 30 times safer than other modes of transportation, but this is my first flight longer than three hours, so it felt eternity being on air at the time.
Once the aircraft disabled the seatbelt signs, a hum of Russian and Cantonese murmurs fill the air while flight attendants started pulling crates of food and drinks. Lunch was a fusion of Russian and Asian dishes: savory chicken and buckwheat, and a lighter option of stir-fried veggies and rice, alongside standard add-ons of bread rolls, jelly and butter plus a platter of fruit.
The seat was rather cramped for my liking, but at least the entertainment system is fully functional and should extinguish my boredom in the next few hours until I fall asleep. My aisle seat provided more flexibility as my row companions both fell asleep soon as the plane took off.
I occasionally check the flight path and understood we just crossed the Kazakhstan border and are already in Russian airspace. When I got the chance, I called the attention of the flight attendant and asked, “is that Samara?” pointing to an urban area through the window. With a hearty chuckle, she responded, “no”, followed by a short Russian phrase I did not dare to ask for translation. Heading towards Moscow, I get the feeling of a more pleasant vibe. I can’t wait to deplane and explore the Shemeretyevo Airport layover before the three-hour flight to Vienna.
Upon arrival, Moscow must have had a snowstorm prior to our landing. The sky was bleak and snow filled the ground as de-icing trucks sprayed onto the aircraft at high pressure to melt and remove ice, snow, and frost.
I barely used the Russian phrases to interact with customs personnel scanning my carry-on bag, but I was indeed singled out from a line of departing passengers. I suspect that it was because of my passport. The inspecting officer, spoke clear English but in heavy Russian tone, ask where I was going and how long will I be in my destination. I could have answered just the second question and just pointed at the sign that said “Vienna” on our gate to answer the first, but I did not risk provoking him.
I arrived in Vienna at 7:40pm. It isn’t as big as Hong Kong but it worked to my advantage. It’s clean and well-organized, and signs are in both German and English.
I assumed that Austrians, like many Europeans, are fairly proficient in English. That was my belief until I visited Spain and Italy. At Vienna Airport, it didn’t take long for me to spot my solitary Victorinox luggage at the baggage claim area. With nothing to declare, I made my way through customs effortlessly.
Reflecting on my experience with an officer checking my passport in Moscow, I’d rather approach an Austrian police officer to ask a random question than be approached and asked for my documents. This is similar to what I sometimes do in Hong Kong if I forget my ID during a random street inspection; approaching them first tends to make them less suspicious, and won’t ask for my identification.
I sought where is the taxi stand, and the Austrian officer patiently showed me the direction, taking mental notes using his hand gestures. Of course I did not need to board a taxi, as Gerlie promised to pick me up.
Not long after that, Gerlie showed up, welcomed me to Vienna, and introduced me to her friend Lily. Outside of the airport, I can feel the piercing cold weather that rendered my jacket less useful. We took Gerlie’s car and drove off to Lily’s place. Along the way, the streets of Vienna was what was advertised, clean, sparsely populated at this time of the day, and adequately lit.
Historic buildings, with their intricate facades and elegant architecture, are softly illuminated, giving them a majestic presence even in the dark. The iconic spires and domes of Vienna’s churches and monuments occasionally come into view, providing glimpses of the city’s rich history.
As you we approached the residential blocks, the pace slows, and the streets become quieter. Rows of classic apartment buildings, with their tall windows and ornate balconies, stand gracefully, each one lit with a warm, inviting glow. The atmosphere is peaceful, with just the occasional cyclist or tram passing by.
The winter chill gives way to warmth interiors of Lily’s place located at Adamsgasse. In German street lingo, gasse means lane or alley, while strasse refers to street, the broader, more significant roadway. Her apartment has high ceilings, adorned with classic stucco moldings that add an old-world charm. The walls are lined with bookshelves overflowing with novels, art books, and, a vast collection of vinyl records, neatly stacked and organized.
A vintage turntable sits proudly on a mid-century wooden cabinet, hinting at evenings filled with music. “Another Cup of Coffee” by Mike and the Mechanics plays at RTL Radio as I reclined in the soft leather sofa exploring the living room while Gerlie and Lily were busy preparing dinner.
Jetlagged and exhausted from the long flight, I was still brimming with excitement, eager to share every detail of the journey— from the surprisingly tasty Aeroflot food to the random passport check at Sheremetyevo Airport. Despite the fatigue, each moment felt like a story waiting to be told.
The next morning, I woke up to a crisp, chilly morning with blue skies and bright sunshine. My mother texted me, feeling both sad and amazed that her son had finally reached a distant land. It inspired me to plan a trip with her to Hong Kong the following year.
The melting snow patches on the road confirmed that I had truly experienced real winter weather.
I explored Löwengasse, the street next to the building, where trams passed by just a stone’s throw from the Donaukanal. The beige buildings had shops selling novelties and cozy cafés on the ground floor.
My exploration led me to Hundertwasser House, a building that features vibrant colors, uneven floors, and whimsical designs, showcasing the unique architectural style of Friedensreich Hundertwasser. After taking a photo, I went inside, explored for a bit, and secured my first Austrian souvenirs: a University of Vienna shirt and another one clarifying, “There’s no kangaroo in Austria.” I also picked up a fridge magnet, the first of many to come, and a staple keepsake for my future travels.
After having breakfast with Gerlie and Lily, which included bread, pastries, hot chocolate, and jam, we headed to the city’s attractions. The first thing I noticed was that, unlike Hong Kong, where you pass through turnstiles, you need to secure tickets for public transport like the tram, but there are no staff to enforce this. The honor system in public transport relies on passengers purchasing tickets without physical checks, trusting them to comply, promoting self-regulation and efficiency while reducing the need for staff to check tickets or infrastructure to deter fare dodgers. At the time, the fine for passengers caught without a valid ticket or transport pass in Vienna was €100.
Riding the Vienna tram was a charming experience, gliding smoothly through the city’s vibrant streets. The gentle sway of the tram brought back memories of scenes from Before Sunrise, where Jesse and Céline navigated the city’s enchanting atmosphere. The tram ride, like the scenes shown in the couple’s journey, offered glimpses of everyday life in Vienna.
Vienna’s transport system is extensive and efficient, featuring trams, buses, and the U-Bahn (subway). The network includes over 30 tram lines and 5 U-Bahn lines, serving approximately 2 million riders daily. With frequent schedules and well-connected routes, it offers a convenient way to explore the city, especially for tourists like me who rely mainly on public transport.
The winter jacket I brought was not warm enough so Gerlie lent me a spare one.
As a first-time visitor in Vienna, I was ever-conscious what to bring: my camera, passport, hard cash and photographic memory to recall the way home in case I get lost. I took a tram at Radetzkyplatz and exit at Schwedenplatz to visi St. Stephen’s Cathedral, where the towering spires stood out amidst the bustling crowd. Navigating through tourists was a challenge, so arriving early helped me appreciate its beauty without feeling rushed. In reality, Vienna is a very walkable city, with attractions located close to each other.
Next, I strolled to the Hofburg Palace, which was a short walk away. The grandeur of the architecture was stunning, but I faced long queues for entry. I recommend booking tickets in advance to save time.
After exploring the Hofburg, I made my way to the Prater. The vibrant atmosphere was filled with laughter and excitement, especially around the iconic Ferris wheel, also featured prominently in that Richard Linklater movie. I enjoyed a leisurely walk through the park but found the paths a bit crowded. Keeping to the sides allowed me to soak in the sights without feeling overwhelmed.
For a walking tour in Vienna’s Innere Stadt, start at the iconic St. Stephen’s Cathedral to soak in its grandeur. Then, stroll along the Ringstrasse to visit the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Natural History Museum, both worthy of investing more time. Explore the Hofburg Palace and its gardens for Instagram-worthy shots. Avoid overly touristy spots like the nearby souvenir shops to maximize your experience. Conclude with a coffee at a local café while observing people go by.
The interior of St. Stephen’s Cathedral is breathtaking, adorned with intricate Gothic details and stunning stained glass. However, I lament that it’s often filled with tourists rather than parishioners attending mass, as photographers dominate the space, turning moments of prayer into opportunities for snapshots, overshadowing its spiritual significance in this city that has since become more secular than ever. Gerlie also shared the state of the Catholic church in Vienna, and its dwindling population.
Visiting the Vienna International Centre (VIC) was a fascinating experience, as it serves as a hub for international diplomacy and cooperation. Home to various United Nations organizations, the VIC symbolizes Vienna’s role as a global city. The VIC houses several key UN agencies, including the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC), the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), and the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO).
UNODC focuses on combating drug trafficking and organized crime, promoting global security. The IAEA plays a critical role in promoting safe nuclear energy and preventing nuclear proliferation, ensuring international safety standards. UNIDO works to advance sustainable industrial development, supporting economic growth and environmental protection.
As a tired tourist navigating Vienna on foot, I felt the city’s charm intermingled with exhaustion. The rich aroma of kebab shops wafted through the air, mingling with the inviting scent of fresh coffee from nearby cafés. While many shops were closed, those that remained open lacked customers, painting a picture of a slow-paced side of Vienna. It’s a stark contrast to life in Hong Kong, where securing a table can be a challenge in the space-deprived city.
The drive from Löwengasse to Semmering was picturesque, winding through snow-dusted landscapes and charming Alpine villages. As we ascended, the scenery transformed into a winter wonderland, with snow-covered trees glistening in the sunlight. I had fun mimicking the female German voice on Google navigation, generating chuckles from my companions.
“Nach 200 Metern biegen Sie rechts ab auf die Radetzkystraße”
Although my Cantonese skills are limited and I never reached a conversational level, Gerlie and Lily are fluent in German. I imagine that if I were surrounded by Cantonese speakers, I would quickly pick up the language and improve my fluency.
Arriving at Semmering, excitement bubbled within me as I stepped into the snow for the first time. Though my outfit wasn’t ideal. It was more suited for city strolling than snowy adventures. I couldn’t resist the thrill of playing in the soft, powdery snow. For a moment I felt like a young child exhilirated with a fulfilled dream of experiencing snow for the first time. I made snowballs and took my first clumsy steps, embracing the magic of winter despite my chilly discomfort.
Austria boasts a rich tradition of winter sports prowess, consistently excelling in the Winter Olympics. My visit to Vienna coincided with the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin.
I witnessed the immense pride and joy of Austrians and their place in the winter Olympics. With a strong emphasis on Alpine skiing and ski jumping, Austria has produced numerous champions, making it a powerhouse in the process. At the Turin Olympics, Austria finished third overall in the medal standings, only behind Germany and the United States.
Munich
During this Vienna trip, the trio of us also managed to go for a quick side trip to Munich, a five-hour train ride from Vienna. This makes good use of the intended purpose of a Schengen visa: to be able to cross boundaries without passing through passport checks.
Our adventure began at Marienplatz, the bustling central square, where the stunning Gothic architecture of the Neues Rathaus captivated me. I enjoyed watching the Glockenspiel performance, which brought history to life. The Glockenspiel is a charming clock tower located in Munich’s Marienplatz. It features a captivating mechanical performance, with life-sized figurines reenacting historical events. Every day at 11 a.m. and noon, the chimes and animated scenes draw crowds, showcasing the city’s rich heritage and adding a magical touch to the square.
On a cloudy day, Viktualienmarkt exudes a cozy, inviting atmosphere. The vibrant stalls brim with fresh produce, artisan cheeses, and baked goods, while the muted skies create a soft, diffuse light. I was more interested in looking around even as the cold cloudy morning calls for a hot cup of coffee while sitting on a cozy sofa.
Twenty-minute drive away northeast was a sporting landmark. The Allianz Arena is a stunning sight for a first-timer, with its glowing, futuristic façade resembling a giant, illuminated air cushion. Its unique, color-changing panels create a striking visual, much like the Bird’s Nest in Beijing. It is home to the renowned FC Bayern Munich, and a state-of-the-art stadium with its exterior, made of inflatable ETFE panels, changes colors to match team events, creating a captivating glow visible from afar. Hosting over 75,000 fans, it’s a hub for football enthusiasts and a modern architectural marvel.
While there were no upcoming event during the time of my visit, we were granted access to the stadium. I marvelled at the huge capacity and imagine how electric this place would be, on a game highlight such as hometown goals by Bastian Schweinsteiger and Michael Ballack. The stadium coffee shop was also open, helping us ease the morning chill with a warm cup of strong espresso before heading to another historical sports ground ten minutes drive away.
The sprawling grounds of Olympiapark München are vast and impressive, featuring rolling green landscapes, lakes, and striking modern architecture. Dominated by the iconic tent-like roof structure of the Olympic Stadium, the park blends natural beauty with historical significance. Pathways meander through lush lawns, connecting attractions like the Olympic Tower, sports facilities, and serene picnic spots. But it was also a scene that marks as a black eye in the history of the Olympic movement.
The 1972 Munich Olympics were marred by a tragic event known as the Munich Massacre. On September 5, a Palestinian terrorist group called Black September took 11 members of the Israeli Olympic team hostage at the Olympic Village. Despite negotiation efforts, a botched rescue attempt led to the deaths of all the hostages, five terrorists, and one police officer.
Climbing the tower was exhilarating as I took in the panoramic views of Munich’s skyline, with the city sprawling beneath me. At the top, I visited the souvenir shop and found a sleek black Munich Tower shirt in addition to the Vienna keepsakes.
We returned to Vienna later in the day via the ÖBB Railjet. The train ride from Munich to Vienna takes about four to five hours, offering scenic views of the Bavarian countryside transitioning into Austrian landscapes. As darkness surrounds the towns we passed by, the train glided through them blanketed in fresh snow, an amazing winter landscape unfolded outside my window.
Warm lights glimmered from the windows of quaint houses spaced far from each other, hinting at the cozy comfort indoors. As we pass through the stations Rosenheim, Salzburg, and Linz for brief stops, I pondered upon new frontiers to discover. Though I was not yet certain when that would happen, I was inspired enough to go ahead.
As the train inched closer to Vienna on a winter night at 7pm, the soft glow of streetlights and the shimmering reflections of the snow illuminate the dark outdoors. We finally arrived at Wien Hauptbahnhof, a spacious, modern terminal is bathed in soft, ambient lighting. Travelers bustle about, pulling their luggage and quietly heading to the exits as the public announcement system broadcasts calls for upcoming trips.
“Achtung, bitte! Der nächste Zug nach Klagenfurt abfährt von Gleis 2. Der Zug ist pünktlich. Bitte beachten Sie die Einsteigezeiten und überprüfen Sie Ihre Fahrkarten. Vielen Dank!”
Gerlie gets her parked car ready to take us back home, and I move on to pack my slightly stouter luggage on my return trip to Hong Kong.
My first visit to Austria filled me with a sense of awe and positive culture shock. The cobbled streets and dim lighting created a romantic ambiance on winter nights, offering a tranquil escape from the frenetic life in Hong Kong. This subdued atmosphere encouraged reflection and introspection. No wonder brilliant minds like Sigmund Freud, Ludwig van Beethoven, and Erwin Schrödinger thrived in Vienna, drawing inspiration from the city’s rich history and artistic heritage. It was a truly enchanting experience that deepened my appreciation for its cultural depth.
No wonder this was not my only visit in Vienna.